What to look for in a well-made suit

posted by admin | on Thursday, May 31, 2012 Bookmark the permalink |

Buying a quality suit can be tricky because many of the important features are hidden inside the garment. The most significant part of a well-made suit is the type of interlining that is used in the jacket.

Prior to building your jacket, we will leave the interlining, which is an all natural canvas made of horsehair and natural fibers, in hot water for 24 hours and then press it. This will pre-shrink the piece and make sure that shrinkage or deformation will not be an issue once everything is put together. Then, the canvas will be sewn on by hand to the fabric, giving it a very natural and high-end finish. The fabric itself will also be thoroughly ironed twice to eliminate any possible shrinkage and chemicals that go into the fabrication process.

Most suits on the market will have a fused interface lining, which means that the interlining inside (which is synthetic) will be glued on to the fabric. The problem with this method will arise once you start sending your suit to the cleaners, you will notice more and more puckering on the fabric and your suit will never look as good as new. A better alternative to this method is to sew the canvas by machine to the fabric itself; you will find this type of work on certain high-end designer suits. However, we still choose to do all of our assembly by hand, making your suits more durable and giving them a more luxurious finish.

Furthermore, your sleeves will come with working hand-sewn buttonholes (traditionally known as surgeon cuffs), which are extremely rare these days and a sign of true bespoke craftsmanship. Naturally, your buttons will be all hand-mounted with an elevated shaft to allow for smooth buttoning and unbuttoning.

At the end of it all, your suit has to be comfortable. For this reason, we use high-quality bemberg lining inside of your jacket which is very light and allows your body to breath more easily (as opposed to regular acetate lining). We will also sew on this lining inside your trousers from the knee up, providing you a smoother surface on your knees and thighs when sitting or walking.