What to look for in a perfectly fitted suitposted by arthur | on Tuesday, Oct 11, 2016 Bookmark the permalink |
Luxury fabric is essential for a suit to look good, however, it's the fit that determines whether or not the suit looks good on you. Off the rack purchases almost never fit correctly, which is why a bespoke suit-made just for you by a master tailor is easily the best choice. The following are the top four adjustments needed for a suit to fit perfectly.
Shoulders are an especially complicated area of the suit to adjust, requiring an expert hand. The seam of the jacket should sit where your shoulder just begins to curve downwards. If the shoulders are too broad, it gives the impression of a linebacker, or else, the suit looks like it's from the 80's. If the shoulders are too narrow, it can look as though you've outgrown your jacket. Additionally, a tailored fit in the shoulders is essential for feeling comfortable: too large and the fabric sits heavily, too snug and your arms are constricted.
Often, the sleeves of an off the rack jacket are too long. The sleeve's hem should sit right at the wrist bone: where the hand and the wrist meet. When you rest your hands at your sides, ¼" to ½" of the linen (your shirt's cuff) should stick out from under the jacket. This also creates a nice reference between the fabric at your hands and the fabric at your collar and chest.
Waist suppression is when a tailor cinches fabric at the waist, creating a flattering "V"-shaped jacket. Buttons should be able to close easily, without pulling. More waist suppression leads to a modern, slimming look. Or, you may choose a conservative waist suppression for a fuller, traditional style.
The finish at the hem may be cuffed, or not. Non-cuffed pants offer a slimmer, minimalist look. These pants can feature a half break, where the pants end about 1/2 to 2/3 down the shoe. Socks may occasionally be visible, therefore you can also choose to wear them as an accent.
Cuffing gives a more vintage look associated with old-Hollywood class. Cuffing adds weight to the bottom of the pant and are ideal for pleated pants. A full break can be applied to the cuffed pant, and lands at the top of the heel of your shoe. The pants cover 2/3 to 3/4 of shoe's laces; therefore, socks are never visible. Cuffed pants can also feature no break, resting at the top of the shoe, but they have to be narrower. Socks are especially visible when you're sitting, and many men choose no break-or flood-pants in order to stylishly display colorful or patterned socks.